My apologies for the shortage of photos in this post, but there seems to be a break in the record!
February
18 1953 (Wednesday)
Without
too much of a rush, Mum and Dad packed up, leaving David and I at the
swimming pool; they paid the hotel bill, got some more money from the
bank and replenished the stocks of food. They then went to the
police station to collect our guns. The key for the gunroom was
with one of the officials at the law courts, so we had another delay while he
was tracked down. It was by now nearly noon and David and I still
had to be collected from the Kano Club.
This was an excuse for a
final cold drink as it was so hot and then we were on the road once again for
next part of the journey. Notes from our trusty Trans-African
Highways book read as follows: "Kano to Bangassou Distance 1509
miles: The last 1108 miles of the route given run through French
Equatorial Africa (including French Cameroons) and the first 401 miles through
British Territory (mandated territory administered by British Nigeria and
British Nigeria itself). The question of the route to be taken on
the last part between Fort Sibut and Bangassou (341 miles) is dependent on the
time of the year and the state of the Lake Chad floods. Although in
the Rain Chart November to March are shown as dry months in French Equatorial,
the inundations south of the Lake only recede completely for two months in the
year viz. January and February. During December and March it
is necessary to travel via Bongor instead of Fort Lamy." There
was also an all-weather route, but this would have added miles to our
trip. We just hoped that the rains would not start early and our
aim was to do the route as direct as possible from Kano to Bangassou.
A not very good photo of David and I having a last swim at Kano |
The
shock came only a few miles out of Kano when we were back onto dirt roads
again, but other than that we had a pretty uneventful afternoon. We
drove through a few small villages where everything was very dry, waiting for
the rains that we hoped to miss. At 17h00 we found a very nice
clearing and we decided that this would be an ideal place to set up camp for
the night. Dad tried the radio to see if we could pick
anything up and sure enough we had some lively music to enjoy while
getting everything ready for the night. Several of the locals who
were walking by were intrigued by the music and stopped to listen.
David and I made a fire in a cleared piece of ground, not because we were cold,
but we hoped that it would keep away a few of the flying intruders, including
mosquitoes, that were starting to move in on us. We did not stay up
very late and by 19h00 we were all tucked up and ready for sleep.
February
19 1953 Land Mileage 3173
After
the usual early start, we had not gone far when we were stopped by a policeman
who waved a letter at us. We presumed that he wanted it delivered
somewhere en route and we nodded yes, with the result that we had a
passenger! With Mum, Dad and David sitting across the front and myself in
a small seat behind, there was really not room, but everyone squashed up and he
managed to fit in. When we reached his destination in
Potiskum, he was a very much wiser and dustier man and I am sure that he will
never hitch a lift in an overloaded Land Rover in the future. As he
was sitting on the outside he got the full force of the dust and he had been
sitting there for around two and a half hours! He was quite a sorry
sight!
Dad
then suspecting a problem with the Land Rover, had decided to investigate only
to find that we had broken yet another spring. We managed to find a
garage where an African helped Dad to take the old spring off and replace it
with our repaired spare. This meant we needed to repair another
leaf as soon as possible, so we had a spare to carry again. We had
been lucky enough to repair the last one in Kano. The
African who had been so helpful did not want to take any money, but Dad gave
him the equivalent of ten shillings for his help and he was a very happy
person! We took to the road again and arrived at Maidugari, which was the
provincial headquarters, at about 16h00. We had to find the Police
Station to get our passports stamped, so decided that we may as well stay the
night at the rest-house, as it was already quite late. Finding that
the rest-house was full, we went on to the police station and they told us that
we could park on an open piece of land opposite the station. We
decided that there would be too many neighbours at that particular spot, so
that was also not a good idea. Dad was quite worried about not
having a spare spring with us, so he decided we should see if we could find a
garage that was large enough and with all the equipment needed to repair the
broken leaf on the one we were carrying. While driving around, we
came across an English couple (Mr. and Mrs. Price) who invited us in for cold
drinks and tea. The next thing we knew was that we had been
invited to dinner and to stay the night. The Land Rover was parked safely
in their compound outside.
What
wonderful people and very hospitable! We all enjoyed hot baths
and felt better than we had at any stage since leaving England. We
had the most delicious meal I think we had ever tasted and finally we all
went off to bed feeling just great and very spoilt.
February
20 1953 (Friday) Land Mileage 3392
At
06h00, tea was served and we got up to an excellent breakfast; this was better
than any hotel! We finally left them at 08h00 and made our way to
the recommended garage. We managed to get a spring made up for an
emergency, not the correct one, but anything was better than
nothing. We also went to the bank to top up the financial
situation and then we were on the road again.
Leaving
here, we drove through quite thick bush country and lots of it; the scenery was
changing constantly and gave us plenty to look at and appreciate.
It was such a joy to see trees and grass around us once more. We
saw some beautiful crested birds, which again, we unfortunately were unable to
identify, together with many pelicans. We hoped to
take some photographs, but by the time we were ready to take the pictures, the
birds had all flown off. We seemed to be quite good at this
exercise! We also saw a troop of monkeys that crossed the road in
front of us; this caused considerable excitement inside the Land
Rover. They were quite beautiful, most of them being a red-brown in
colour, but there were some grey ones as well. It was still very
hot and at 16h00 we decided that it was time to find somewhere to stop for the
night.
Mum washing the clothes; presumably they had checked that there were no crocs around first!! |
We
managed to get our clothes washed - thank goodness for nylon shirts, which dry
quickly - and we had a good wash ourselves. Although there was no
sand around now, the dust was still pretty horrific. David and I again
cleared an area in which to light a fire, in the hopes that it would keep the
insects away as we ate our evening meal. It was far too hot to
sleep and it must have been close to midnight before we finally managed to
doze off. Apart from the heat, there was also the clamour of birds to
listen to; what were they that made so much noise at night? This was a
totally different world at night now, as well as during the day.
To be continued :-)
I have put this section of my life story on Kindle if you should be interested:-
See
Another interesting chapter. The night in the English home must have been uplifting after your long dusty trip. Seeing the landscape change must have been rewarding too. The heat and the mozzies wouldn't be fun. We are experiencing that kind of heat right now but at least we have AC.
ReplyDeletediane b. We really enjoyed our night with the English couple, I remember that night so well. I forgot to add in the post it was also the first time I had seen a scorpion!
DeleteHave just spoke to my sister-in-law she says Sydney is just too hot at the moment! Keep cool Diane
Every time I read a new post I envy you! :-) I would love to have travelled through Africa back then.
ReplyDeleteJM how I would love to go back in time and do this trip again. (Knowing what I do now and with a good camera) Trying to do it in today's political turmoil would be difficult! Diane
DeleteHi Diane,
ReplyDeleteI realise that I had not read the last few chapters, so I am catching up with your adventure in Africa.
I like the story about the radio and I understand the need for a fire because of the mosquitoes. Although I don't know what the mosquitoes in Africa are like, from experience of the ones in France, I can only assume that it's not nice! Take care.